Israeli Scene
Food
Israel’s Ethiopian Culinary Luminaries
Israel, now home to more than 170,000 people of Ethiopian descent, has a vibrant Ethiopian culinary scene.
Born to a Beta Israel father and an Ethiopian Christian mother who converted to Judaism upon immigrating to Israel, 34-year-old Elazar Tamano grew up looking for new ways to express his heritage. After being the runner-up on one of Israel’s popular television cooking competition shows, The Next Restaurant, the Tel Aviv resident began to stage his sold-out Ethiopian popup dinners all over the country to showcase his twists on tradition, like berbere-spiced fish tartare on a teff cracker and spicy long-cooked meat encased in a crispy injera pocket.
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Fanta Prada, the 42-year-old proprietor of Balinjera, an Ethiopian restaurant in Tel Aviv’s Yemenite Quarter is a former attorney and model who pivoted a decade ago to food to ensure she was doing her part to promote Ethiopian culture.
“It’s about so much more than the food,” Prada explained as she served me a vegetarian sampler arranged artfully on a giant round of injera bread. Everything in her restaurant is prepared fresh daily, including her gingery Swiss chard that I featured in my book Sababa. “It’s about thousands of years of longing for Israel and preserving that story for future generations.”
Adeena Sussman lives in Tel Aviv. She is the author of Shabbat: Recipes and Rituals from My Kitchen to Yours and Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors from My Israeli Kitchen. Sign up for her newsletter here.
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