Food
Feature
Holidays
Hanukkah
Latkes, Donuts and Three-Seeded Schnitzel
Hanukka is a season of gifting and eating, so what better way to start preparing for the holidays than reviewing some of the lastest Jewish cookbooks and food-and-family memoirs? These titles are as delicious to read as they are to cook from.
Board-certified nutrition expert Dawn Lerman contributes to The New York Times’s Well blog, and it is there that she first shared part of the story of My Fat Dad: A Memoir of Food, Love, and Family, with Recipes (Berkeley). While Lerman grew up with a—you guessed it—very heavy father always on the latest diet and a mother who eschewed food and meals in general, it fell to her beloved grandmother, Beauty, to instill a love of good food and cooking. To her credit, Lerman shares her sometimes complicated family history in a light, highly readable and ultimately blameless way. Families are messy, but they are full of love. Lerman ends each chapter with recipes, some handed down from Beauty, others developed in her own kitchen.
Try her Sweet Potato Latkes and Mushroom Latkes this Hanukka, and pay attention to her suggestion of using coconut oil to fry the sweet potato pancakes. Her Healing Mushroom Miso Soup, packed with cancer-fighting immune-system boosters, became a part of her father’s eventual commitment to nutritious living after his serious cancer diagnosis.
Miriam Pascal, aka the Overtime Cook, is among the ranks of young Jewish food bloggers and Instagram regulars transforming the way kosher observers eat, cook and gorgeously present their food. And now her baking savior faire is available in print with the publication of her first cookbook, Something Sweet: Desserts, Baked Goods, and Treats for Every Occasion (ArtScroll/Mesorah). For Hanukka, I recommend Pascal’s Bakery Style Cake Donuts, Lemon Olive Oil Biscotti and No-Margarine Chocolate Chip Cookies.
Two Canadian kosher cooks are behind The Silver Platter: Simple to Spectacular Wholesome, Family-Friendly Recipes (ArtScroll/Mesorah). Norene Gilletz is a veteran kosher cookbook author and culinary instructor and is online at Gourmania. She has been called The Jewish Julia Child. Her efforts in The Silver Platter include tips and techniques that accompany each of Daniella Silver’s 160 recipes. Silver is a young, up-and-coming kosher personality in Canada, and with this cookbook—perfect for everyday and special occasion menus—she shares with hungry readers short on time successful recipes to incorporate into their repertoire.
Have you avoided frying up schnitzel because of health concerns? For Hanukka, shelve those worries and try Silver’s Three-Seeded Schnitzel, a crunchier take on the classic thanks to flax seeds and white and black sesame seeds in the breading. Parsnip Potato Latkes are earthier and tangier than traditional pancakes, and the use of dill both in the latkes and the sour cream topping sauce add piquant flavor. And for sheer fun, delight the young and old at your holiday table with Fudgy Pretzel Brownies for dessert!
May your Hanukka be happy and tasty and full of love.
Recipes from My Fat Dad: A Memoir of Food, Love, and Family, with Recipes (Berkeley)
Sweet Potato Latkes
Makes 8 latkes
2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and quartered
1/2 medium-sized yellow onion, peeled and quartered
2 large eggs, beaten (plus 1 more, as needed, for thinning)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon brown sugar or coconut sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup oil for frying (consider trying coconut oil)
Applesauce, plain yogurt, or sour cream for topping (optional)
1. Using the fine side of a grater or a food processor, grate the potatoes and onions. Transfer them to a large bowl and thoroughly combine with the eggs, flour, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Set aside.
2. In a large skillet set over high heat, warm the oil to cover the bottom of the pan. (If it smokes it is too hot.) Using a large spoon, add dollops of the latke batter to the pan and, using a spatula, shape and flatten the batter into pancakes. Do not overcrowd the pan; you may need to do this in batches. Immediately decrease the heat to medium and cook the latkes until golden brown on each side, approximately 4 minutes on one side and 3 minutes on the other side. Flip the latke only when it is halfway cooked through; otherwise it will break apart.
3. Serve the latkes topped with applesauce, yogurt, or sour cream (if desired).
If the latke batter is too watery, add a bit more flour; if it is too thick, add a little more beaten egg yolk.
Mushroom Latkes
Makes 4 latkes
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup diced onions
10 ounces mushroom of choice, chopped
1/4 cup red or yellow peppers
2 eggs, beaten (plus additional, as needed, for thinning)
1/2 cup chopped pecans
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour (plus additional, as needed, for thickening)
1. Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and stir until soft. Add a little more oil and add the mushrooms and peppers. After about 10 minutes transfer to a plate and set aside.
2. In a large bowl combine the beaten eggs, the pecans, and a touch of salt and pepper. Add in the cooled mushroom mixture and the flour. Stir together.
3. Add the remaining oil to a clean skillet and allow it to warm but not smoke. Ladle in about a quarter of the batter. Allow to brown on the edges before flipping. Cook a few minutes on each side. Continue with the rest of the batter.
If the pancakes seem a little runny, add a touch more flour; if they seem a little dense, you can add a little more egg.
Healing Mushroom Miso Soup
Makes 8 servings
1 (2- to 3-inch) piece fresh organic ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 organic onion, chopped
1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter; make your own or buy online)
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup sliced mixed raw mushrooms—shiitake, portabella, maitake
Water, or you can use 64 ounces of vegetable broth
1 cup organic dried Shiitake mushrooms
1/2 pound tofu, diced
1/4 cup organic miso paste*
1 head of roasted garlic cloves, peeled and mashed
2 organic carrots, chopped
1 teaspoon of salt (preferably a truffle salt or good-quality Himalayan salt) or more to taste
1. In a stockpot, sauté the ginger and onion in the ghee until the onion just begins to sweat. Add the raw garlic and raw mushrooms and cook till browned. Then add the water or broth to the pot and bring to a slow boil. Add the dried mushrooms and tofu and then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the dried shiitakes are fully reconstituted.
2. While the pot of mushrooms is simmering, ladle about 6 ounces of the broth into a separate bowl and add the miso paste to it, stirring until dissolved. Next, add the mashed roasted garlic to this mixture. Once thoroughly combined, add the garlic-miso mixture back into the pot. Stir well and enjoy all the healing properties of this magic broth.
*Miso is a traditional Japanese fermented soy or rice paste. Its healing power is often compared to chicken soup, especially when paired with immune boosters like garlic, ginger, onion, and shiitake mushrooms. There are many types of miso to choose from. I like sweet white miso—this is a paste not a powder—and you can add a little more if you like a strong miso flavor.
Recipes and photos from Something Sweet: Desserts, Baked Goods, and Treats for Every Occasion by Miriam Pascal, reproduced with permission from the copyright holders, ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications.
No-Margarine Chocolate Chip Cookies
Makes about 4 dozen cookies
This recipe has been viewed (so far!) by almost a quarter of a million people on Miriam’s blog (overtimecook.com), making it a must for her to include in her first cookbook. Whether you prefer to bake without butter or margarine, simply don’t have it on hand, or just want to try something new—like using oil for Hanukka baking!—you will be in good company when enjoying this recipe!
1 cup oil
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 cups good-quality chocolate chips
1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, on medium speed, beat together oil and sugars until smooth and creamy.
3. Add vanilla, baking soda, salt, eggs and cornstarch, beating well to combine after each addition. Reduce mixer speed to low. Add flour; beat until just combined. Add chocolate chips; stir until evenly distributed.
4. Using a medium cookie scoop (or a heaping tablespoon), drop dough onto prepared baking sheets. Bake for 8-9 minutes, until tops are set. Do not overbake.
Variation: Instead of the chocolate chips, use the flavored chip of your choice, such as peanut butter, butterscotch, or nougat.
Plan Ahead: These cookies freeze well in an airtight container or bag.
Lemon Olive Oil Biscotti
Makes 15 large biscotti
While olive oil isn’t a standard baking ingredient, when used correctly (and during the oil-centric holiday of Hanukka!), the flavor can really enhance your baked goods. One of my favorite flavor pairings for olive oil is lemon (and other citrus flavors). These cookies have an amazing but subtle fruity flavor, thanks to this lovely flavor combination.
3/4 cup extra-virgin or light olive oil
3/4 cup sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt
2 eggs
2 1/4 cups flour
1. Preheat oven to 350º F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside.
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, on medium speed, beat together olive oil, sugar, and lemon zest until smooth. Add lemon juice, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and eggs. Beat until combined and creamy.
3. Add flour; beat on low until just combined. The dough will be loose and sticky.
4. Form the dough into a long, narrow log along the length of the prepared baking sheet (it will spread along the width, so don’t make it too wide). It is easiest to do this with slightly damp hands. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven; allow to cool for about 5 minutes.
5. Slice the log into diagonal slices about 1/2-inch wide. Lay the slices, cut side up, on the baking sheet; bake for 15 minutes. Turn slices over; bake an additional 10 minutes.
Bakery Style Cake Donuts
Makes 18-20 donuts
If you read “cake donut” and think “baked donut,” think again. These donuts are made using a dough similar to cake batter, which utilizes baking powder instead of yeast to rise, so if you’re intimidated by yeast (and even if you’re not), you’ll appreciate the simplicity of this recipe. My favorite thing about these donuts is that while best freshly fried, they stay fresher longer than yeast donuts, and they will still be great the next day!
2 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 3/4 cups flour
3/4 cup milk or soy milk
1/4 cup oil
Oil for frying
Glaze (optional)
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, on medium speed, beat together eggs and sugar until smooth and creamy, 2-5 minutes. Add baking powder, nutmeg, and vanilla; beat to combine.
2. Reduce mixer speed to low. Add one-third of the flour, followed by the milk, followed by another third of the flour; add oil, then remaining flour. Beat until a sticky dough forms. Refrigerate dough until firm, 1-2 hours or up to overnight.
3. Remove dough from the fridge (the dough will not rise until it is fried). Place it on a heavily floured surface. The dough will still be somewhat sticky, so it’s important to use plenty of flour to roll it out.
4. Roll dough out to about 1/4-inch thickness. Using a cookie cutter or the rim of a glass, cut out dough circles; then, with a smaller cutter or glass, cut a small circle from the center. Carefully pick up each donut to make sure it retains its shape. Reserve the small circles to fry as donut holes (see Variation).
5. Heat about 2 inches of oil in a medium saucepan or deep fryer over medium heat. Test the oil by dipping a donut into the oil; when ready, it will start to bubble immediately.
6. Fry 2 or 3 donuts at a time. Wait until you see the golden brown color start to creep up the side of the center before turning donuts. This will take about 1-1 1/2 minutes. Flip the donuts and fry until golden brown on the other side, about 1 minute.
7. Remove from oil; drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Allow to cool slightly before glazing.
Variation: To make Cinnamon-Sugar Donut Holes: Combine 4 teaspoons sugar with 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Fry the small dough circles in hot oil for about 30 seconds per side. Remove from oil and roll hot donut holes in sugar mixture. Set aside to cool.
Glazes (each recipe makes enough glaze for a standard cake):
Vanilla Glaze
1 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup or honey
1 tablespoon milk or soy milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl, whisk until smooth.
Chocolate Glaze
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons milk or soy milk
Combine all ingredients in a small bow, whisk until smooth.
Customizable Glaze
1 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup or honey
1 tablespoon milk or soy milk
1/2 teaspoon clear flavor extract of your choice
2-3 drops food coloring (optional)
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl, whisk until smooth.
Recipes and photos from The Silver Platter: Simple to Spectacular Wholesome, Family-Friendly Recipes by Daniella Silver and Norene Gilletz. Reproduced with permission from the copyright holders, ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications.
Three-Seeded Schnitzel
Serves 6
6 boneless chicken breasts, pounded thin
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 1/2 cups panko crumbs (regular or gluten-free)
1/4 cup flax seeds
1/4 cup white sesame seeds
1/4 cup black sesame seeds
2 eggs
Oil for frying
1 lemon, cut into wedges for garnish
1. Sprinkle chicken on both sides with salt, pepper, and paprika.
2. Combine panko crumbs, flax seeds, and white and black sesame seeds in a medium bowl. Mix well. Lightly beat eggs in second bowl.
3. Dip chicken first in egg, then into panko mixture, coating all sides.
4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry chicken on both sides until cooked through and juices run clear, 3-5 minutes per side.
5. Pat chicken with paper towel to remove excess oil. Keep warm in a 250º over or transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with lemon wedges.
Parsnip Potato Latkes
Makes 12-15 large latkes
1 pound parsnips, peeled (2-4, depending on size)
1 large potato, peeled (preferably Idaho/russet)
1 medium onion
2 eggs
1/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Grapeseed or vegetable oil, for frying
Sour Cream Dill Topping
1 1/2 cups sour cream
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Freshly ground black pepper
Additional dill for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 250º. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a food processor fitted with the shredding disk, shred parsnips, potato, and onion, using medium pressure. Transfer vegetables to a large colander and press firmly to drain excess liquid.
3. Place vegetables into a large bowl. Add eggs, flour, baking powder, salt, pepper, and dill. Mix well.
4. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, drop large spoonfuls of batter into hot oil to form pancakes, flattening them slightly with the back of the spoon. Do not crowd the skillet. Fry for 3-4 minutes per side or until golden.
5. Drain well on paper towels. Transfer to prepared baking sheet and place into oven to keep warm.
6. Make the topping: Stir together sour cream, lemon juice, dill, and pepper. Place into a serving bowl; garnish with additional dill. Serve with latkes.
Fudgy Pretzel Brownies
Makes about 2 dozen brownies
1 cup flour
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup brown sugar, lightly packed
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
About 24 whole pretzels, salted or unsalted
1/2 cup semisweet or white chocolate chips
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1. Preheat oven to 325º. Spray a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, salt and baking powder.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, oil, sugars, and vanilla until well blended. Add flour mixture and stir until just combined.
4. Spread batter evenly in prepared pan. Arrange a layer of whole pretzels over batter.
5. Bake 28-30 minutes, or until toothpick comes out almost clean. Cool slightly.
6. Make the glaze: In a small saucepan over low heat, melt chocolate chips with oil. Drizzle glaze in a zigzag design over pretzel-topped brownies. Cool completely before cutting into squares.
Sondra says
Sounds almost too good to be true